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Chronoswiss Regulateur 30
“Don’t be seduced by a pretty face”. “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder”. The caveats ring out, but seduced I am.
Chronoswiss with its limited output again presents a watch in limited edition, two limited editions in fact, 130 pieces in 18 carat red gold and 300 in stainless steel and I am beguiled by both.
The 30 appended to the name denotes a landmark for Chronoswiss, their thirtieth anniversary. It also marks the silver anniversary of the Régulateur. The company may not have been in production as many years as many producers of fine watches but they have focussed on research and development and with their emphasis on craftsmanship and hand-crafting are exemplars of what is best in haute horology. It is a company inspired by the past and upholding the best of the past.
I love the red cased version and I am also a lover of blued hands. For brevity I will focus on the red gold.
My beloved son accuses me of frugality. In his blunt Lancashire, I am tight. But on this occasion I would say if you can access both, buy both, and ensure colour co-ordination with your wardrobe.
Presented is a lovely, round face typical of Saxonian watches but this is Swiss, although the company’s founder, Gerd R Lang comes from Brunswick and the German character is visible.
The main dial is richly engraved with clous de Paris motif. It is breathtaking.
There are two other dials set within. The larger dial occupying more than half of the face’s upper portion shows the minutes. Overlapping it is the subsidiary seconds in the lower portion of the dial. Both are exquisite in their detail. Their inner circle features chessboard guilloché. It is absolute perfection. Their chapter rings are both simply numbered at the five integers in the case of the minutes, at the quarters in the case of the seconds, in clear, black Arabic numbers and fine strokes define the interim minutes and seconds. It is simple, unadorned elegance but that refinement then allows you to focus on the precision and delicacy of other detail.
The encircling chapter ring is satiné circulaire. Its limits bound by sauté pique. The swallow style hands are blued. The maker refers to them as Feuille, leaf shaped, but whatever the appendage they are perfectly sculpted. An aperture at 12 o’clock presents in bold Arabic from, the jumping hours. There is no hour hand to intrude on the view afforded of the engraving and the blued hands are sculpted not to detract from that miraculous finish, only to compliment it.
Two simple cartouches are set in the lower half of their face, discretely announcing “Chronoswiss” and “Limited Edition” whilst on the hour dial at 6 o’clock is the monogram of Gerd R Lang, the G encircling a reversed R and the L forming its vertical stroke, not ostentatious, just there as a reminder of the Chronoswiss founder.
Digressing from close examination of one of his masterpieces I applaud this man who did so much for the Swiss watch making industry. Having read a little about him, and the interview recorded in The Daily Telegraph of 11th August 2011 which provides a useful, accessible insight, I smile. I smile because as he eschews quartz watches and champions mechanical timepieces, I hear my son.
At 6 o’clock on the subsidiary seconds is the identifying “Swiss Made” and below the number of the limited edition.
With such a face the framing has to be perfection. A fluted bezel surrounds it. It is exquisitely delineated. In red gold it radiates warmth.
Conventionally at 3 o’clock a most magnificent onion crown rests imposingly. Nothing is superfluous. It is just impressive.
The lugs are simple and shapely, welded, allowing the case and dial to focus with all their charismatic charm. Such beauty elicits joy.
The same perfection in craftsmanship resides within the case. The case back is screw-down and polished with a sapphire crystal to facilitate the view within.
Such a case can only house a superb movement and the C.283 does not disappoint with an impressive technical specification. It offers much; 27 jewels, Glucydur balance, Incabloc shock protection and a power reserve of 42 hours.
The strap is of Louisiana crocodile with matching stitching and comes with either pin buckle or clasp.
I like the strap.
Frequently stitching is in contrast with the strap’s colour and can make a bold statement. Such a distraction would be a mistake. The focus is that incredible face and case.
On a dull November day, this is a watch to enjoy. Keep the stainless steel for summer days but in these dark days enjoy the warmth and glow of the red gold and the sunshine radiated. Bask in its glow and be beguiled.
- Model: Chronoswiss Régulateur 30
- Reference: CH2811R (18-carat red gold); CH2813 (stainless steel)
- Case: 18-carat red gold or stainless steel dependent on model; diameter 40.00 mm; height 9.65 mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; subsidiary seconds.
- Movement: C.283, self-winding; frequency 28,800vph (4Hz); 27 jewels; power reserve 42 hours.
- Strap: Louisiana crocodile leather strap available on pin buckle or deployant.