Blue moon

Man has often obsessed with the moon. A sage eye looking down on the earth below, it has led to man perilously voyaging to discover its beguiling charms.

The moon has provided inspiration in music and been featured in literature. It sometimes symbolises femininity, love, wisdom, death and emotions. Conversely, it has been associated with masculine deities.

A moon phase is a complication which appears on some of the finest timepieces available and often is accompanied with premium pricing. Moreover, retrograde hands are the preserve of watches with a higher than average cost. This latest offering from Maurice Lacroix features both.

The moon phase disc on the blue dialled version of the Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde is black with rhodied stars, as it is on the black gold dial version. The moon is depicted in a deep blue on the silver dial version and it is this model which recently arrested my attention at Baselworld.

The dial

The case diameter is 43 mm. The well-judged proportions provide sterling legibility and present information in an easy to interpret format. However, by avoiding the over-sized architecture of some models, wearer comfort is assured.

The dial is based on a 925 solid silver plate. The silver colour is effortlessly elegant and is complemented by warm gold details and a dark blue sky on the moon disc. The chosen palette of colours work in accord, affording harmonious beauty.

Diamond-cut pink gold hour markers are used to indicate the hours. They vary in length depending on their location on the dial and the space required by the adjacent complications.

The power reserve indicator utilises similar gold batons but these are arranged in ever increasing size, in a crescent like form, reinforcing the lunar links. It is positioned adjacent 2 o’clock and is balanced with a date indicator positioned at 10 o’clock.

A slender, sylph-like hand points to the date imparting wonderful clarity to the wearer. The date indicator uses a retrograde hand, providing a splendid spectacle when the hand returns to the first day of the month and underscoring the mechanical magnificence of the movement within the case.

At 6 o’clock the moon phase is presented on a subdial with the days of the week depicted around its perimeter. A plain gold hand indicates the day of the week in a succinct manner.

The dial has a subtle sunbrush finish. Every detail of the the dial works in concert without ostentation or excessive discourse with the wearer.

The case

A wonderful mating ritual of polished and satin surfaces is evident on the case. The entwined finishes provide an elegant muse for the mechanical mastery housed within the case.

If you study the case lugs you will note the polished diagonal angles provide a juxtaposition with the satin finish of the horizontal and vertical surfaces. The light captured on the polished elements of the case offers warmth and brilliance, congruent with the rest of the timepiece.

The crown is knurled, aiding adjustment and is highly polished. It features the Maurice Lacroix logo on its vertical flank.

The screwed case back features a sapphire crystal to proffer a view of the manufacture movement.

The movement

Many watches utilise third party movements, especially on models which are priced at a less ethereal level. However, Maurice Lacroix have produced a new automatic movement for this model, the ML 192.

It is produced entirely in-house, Swiss made and has 59 jewels.

The plate is wonderfully adorned with circular graining, whilst bridges are brushed and the rotor is presented with Grand Colimaçon or snailed finish.

The calibre has a power reserve of 52 hours.

This watch offers several additional functions beyond displaying hours and minutes. Date, day, moon phase and power reserve are expertly presented and exceed the offer provided my watches of smilar price.

Conclusion

The moon has a dynamic quality, waxing and waning, offering a different character with the passage of time. This watch has an inherent quality which never fades or changes.

The moon is omnipresent in the nocturnal sky a bit like the intrinsic merit of this timepiece.

Once every blue moon a watch delivers numerous functions in an uncluttered way, with a harmonious dial demonstrating an alluring aesthetic. This watch provides these qualities as well as a manufacture movement at an attractive price in a competitive marketplace. It really offers a rare blend of talents and will illuminate any wearer's face with its comely charms.

Technical specification

• Model: Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Lune Rétrograde

• Reference: MP6528-SS001-130 (silver dial); MP6528-SS001-330 (black gold dial); MP6528-SS001-430 (blue dial)

• Case: Stainless steel; diameter 43.00 mm; water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front and rear.

• Functions: Hours; minutes; date; day; moon phase; power reserve.

• Movement: ML 192, self-winding; frequency 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz); 59 jewels; power reserve 52 hours

• Strap: Large-scale crocodile leather strap lined with calfskin (available in brown on black on the silver dial version) presented on steel deployant.