All Watch Reviews

Parmigiani Fleurier Ovale Pantographe

Once again, Parmigiani have shown a unique mien which differentiates them from other brands. There are several models within their new Ovale range, but it is the Pantographe with its telecopic hands, which is the focus of this review.

Montblanc Star Quantième Complet

Audrey Hepburn once remarked, “elegance is the only beauty that never fades”. This quotation immediately came to mind when I saw the handsome timepiece, Star Quantième Complet, from Montblanc.

Baume & Mercier Clifton GMT

Recently, I visited the Baume & Mercier HQ outside Geneve. Here, I had the pleasure of meeting Alexandre Peraldi, Design Director of the brand and surveyed several models laid out in front of me including this GMT from the new Clifton collection.

Eberhard Chrono 4 Géant - hands on

I placed the Eberhard Chrono 4 Géant and knew immediately that hours of key tapping would subsequently ensue in order to convey its many charms.

U-Boat U-51 Chimera (6495) - hands on

It was whilst holding the U-Boat U-51 Chimera (6495) that I was reminded of an episode in my youth. This handsome watch, which I have been lucky enough to wear of late, is a model of clarity and has the most profoundly clean appearance.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227

At Baselworld 2013, Patek Philippe released several gorgeous new models. A particular model which elicited a gasp of delight and a nod of appreciation from this self-confessed watch fanatic was the Calatrava Ref. 5227.

TAG Heuer CARRERA Calibre 36 Chronograph Flyback “Racing” (43mm)

This is a special year for Tag Heuer, maker of timepieces for the intrepid racing professional. It is 50 years since Jack Heuer created his first Carrera timepiece and the brand is currently celebrating the golden anniversary of this iconic watch.

IWC Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon

The IWC Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon is a timepiece which took 10 years to bring to fruition which includes a constant force-escapement. However, is it a podium winner?

Grand Seiko 44GS Limited Edition

This limited edition timepiece is a faithful representation of the original 44GS launched in the year of my birth, 1967. Close examination reveals much merit, justifying my fervent editorial efforts.

Tudor Fastrider Black Shield

I have just returned from Baselworld 2013 and can report that it did not disappoint. There were many novelties which engendered unbridled avarice in this die-hard fan of horology. One brand that was firmly on the agenda was Tudor.

Tutima Hommage Minute Repeater in rose gold

In 2011, Tutima created a new state of the art manufactory in Glashütte. Moreover, it marked this significant landmark in its history with the creation of the mouth-watering, tour de force, the repeating Hommage wristwatch.

Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Tourbillon Chronograph

“It’s complicated” is something I associate with disappointment. However, when it comes to haute horology, the reverse is true. To own a “complicated timepiece” is a joy.

Masterpiece Le Chronographe Squelette - Number 1 of 188 pieces featuring in Harrods

Recently, at Baselworld,  I chatted to personnel from Maurice Lacroix; they showed me several beautiful timepieces from their Masterpiece collection. A model which truly ignited my passion for fine finishing and innovative horology, was the Le Chronographe Squelette.

Breitling for Bentley B06

This year at Baselworld, Breitling revealed three new calibres, the B04, B05 and B06. It is the latter which features in a model that has grabbed my attention.

Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Segundos Centrales

Cuervo y Sobrinos masterfully fuses the two national stereotypes and produces high quality timepieces imbued with a latin spirit. They embrace a bygone era where Cuba, the “Pearl of the Carribean”, attracted the great and the good from stage, screen, literature and politics.

Zeitwinkel 273°

Zeitwinkel, takes its name from two german words, “Zeit” which means “time” and “Winkel” meaning “angle”, hence translated from German into English, the brand means “timeangle”. This alludes to the local time expressed at a specific location on a sundial at noon.

Independent’s day - Sarpaneva Watches Korona K1 Second Edition

I have had the profound pleasure of meeting the charismatic Finnish watchmaker and applaud his unusual approach to watch design and life in general.

Graham Silverstone Vintage 30

The Silverstone collection of models is one of several collections within the Graham-London catalogue. Typical of Loth, he pays due reverence to another English institution, the home of British motorsport, Silverstone.

Perrelet Regulator Retrograde

To the uninformed, the word, “Retrograde” has negative connotations. It can be associated with decline and reverting to an inferior state. However, in the world of haute horology, it means a delightful complication is conferred.

Urwerk UR-210

The latest contemporary timepiece to originate from the Genevan atelier is the UR-210. It is unlike any other watch I have seen or handled. It proffers delightful cutting-edge design.

Dior at Harrods

An invitation for afternoon tea at Harrods arrived in my Inbox. “How remarkably civilised!”, I said to myself. Within two nano seconds, I dispatched an email accepting the invite.

Independent's day - The Robina by Robert Loomes & Co

“I’ve found a watch you’ll like”. Such a statement usually means that the watch being referred to has a traditional feel and this is true in this case; the Robina. It’s totally English, serene of face, beautifully formed, graceful and unpretentious.

Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronographe

When a watch comes along at a price point which allows indulgence, has elegance, eye appeal, which fulfils its maker’s mantra of contemporary design and manufacturing excellence, choice should not be an issue. Indulgence is the answer.

Arnold & Son HMS1

The HMS1 is available in several variants including rose gold, white gold and stainless steel. All models are blessed with attractive aesthetics, but it is the 18-carat rose gold version with cream dial that proffers the greatest appeal to me.

Chopard L.U.C Engine One H

Chopard created an innovative watch in 2010 with the L.U.C Engine One. The architecture of the timepiece drew heavily on automotive cues.

Now, automotive associations are revisited once more.

The Bremont MW Heli-Chrono

The MW Heli-chrono, based on Bremont’s ALT1-P Chronograph range, adds to what is already a superlative range of aviation timepieces. It is a limited edition of only fifty and is proving to be much sought after.

Independent’s day - Voutilainen Vingt-8

When you look at the classical appearance of the Vingt-8, you cannot fail to be beguiled by its impeccable breeding. It has a timeless appeal which exudes style, unsullied by the fickle changing taste of fashion.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar

At SIHH 2013, Jaeger-LeCoultre revealed several headline grabbing novelties but this model caught my eye because of its traditional, restrained tone. Whilst the model is new, it continues the clean-cut lines of the Master Control range.

U-Boat U-51 Black & Bronze

The hedonistic appeal of my favourite drink came to mind as I admired the sculpted horological form of this latest timepiece from the Italian watch brand, U-Boat. The timepiece is delivered in bronze with a very masculine character.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph in 18-carat Pink Gold

I nonchalantly placed the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph on my wrist. Like the watch at SIHH, I had previously dismissed this model, as I thought it would be a little too large and frankly a little “flash” for my tastes. Once again, Audemars Piguet caught me by surprise, this watch captured my heart with its substantial form.

Retailer focus - Chopard Boutique in the Wonder Room at Selfridges, London

Those who seek some of the finest jewellery and matchless timepieces can now enjoy a touch of red carpet glamour in the heart of London. The Chopard Boutique, in the Wonder Room at Selfridges, provides a sublime showcase to sample incredible rings, necklaces, earrings and of course, watches. Moreover, handbags and writing instruments compliment the ensemble of luxury products on offer.

Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon 4

Some brands have tried to bestow their wristwatches with enhanced rate keeping and placed the regulating organ within two cages, working at two different angles. Now, there is another chapter in the history of the Tourbillon.

Richard Mille RM 56-01 Tourbillon Sapphire

Recently at SIHH 2013, I sat with the RM 56-01 Tourbillon Sapphire and we commenced our session by discussing its childhood. I felt a full analysis was justified.

Independent’s day - Grieb & Benzinger Black Tulip

The skeletonised movement is delivered in a sultry shade of black. The nocturnal hue invites the eyes to explore every nuance of its curvaceous form.

An interview with Michel Parmigiani, founder of Parmigiani Fleurier

Parmigiani Fleurier was formed in 1996 with the backing of the Sandoz Family Foundation. The brand’s nomenclature reveals the home of this much respected exemplar of haute horology. Fleurier is located in the district of Val-De-Travers within the canton of Neuchâtel.

An interview with Sara Josephine Sandmeier, designer at Baume & Mercier

I was presented with the opportunity to interview Sara Josephine Sandmeier, a designer at Baume & Mercier. Nothing quite prepared me for the vivacious young designer, with profound charm and an abundance of style.

Independent’s day - Stefan Johansson Växjö Mark IX “G” 41mm

It was somewhat surprising when Stefan first contacted me to introduce himself and his octane-inspired timepieces. My initial reaction was, “Stefan Johansson, the ex-F1 driver?”.

TAG Heuer Calibre 1887 “Jack Heuer” Chronograph (45mm)

The Calibre 1887 “Jack Heuer” Chronograph (45mm) will not be available until October 2013, but a chance discovery on the TAG Heuer online press portal and I was smitten.

U-Boat Classico 45mm in silver

Visiting the seaside with a U-Boat As spring approaches, there is a sense of optimism in the air. My native Lancashire has been battered by angry winter skies of late and I confess the prolonged hours of darkness have a habit of sapping one’s ener...

Independent's day - De Bethune DB25 QP

This is a timepiece, De Bethune refers in its press release as being, “imbued with poetry”. I can see little reason to argue with the beautiful shape, but is the word “poetry” applicable in this instance?

Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R Flieger-Chronograph

Mühle-Glashütte have created a “Flieger-Chronograph” specifically for the rescue pilots from the German Navy, who regularly work together with the rescue workers of the German Maritime Search and Rescue Service (Deutsche Gesellschaft zur Rettung Schiffbrüchiger).

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph

Vacheron Constantin launched the Overseas in 1996. It was sporty, a change of direction for the brand at the time which doffed its hat to the great explorers of yesteryear. Indeed, the caseback featured an engraving of the Amerigo Vespucci galleon.

Independent’s day - Speake-Marin Resilience 42mm Steel Enamel

The Peter Speake-Marin Resilience 42mm Steel Enamel features a pure white enamel dial. Its aesthetic appeal is obvious. Classic lines, with the angelic face of a chaste young lady, it compels me to tap away on my computer keyboard, conveying every nuance of its pleasing form.

DeWitt Academia Double Fuseau GMT

The DeWitt models embrace a unique design language unlike any other timepieces I have previously seen. The danger of being innovative, embracing avant garde forms, is that they may not appeal to everyone. However, I immediately gravitated to several models.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic Tuxedo - exclusive to Harrods

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic Tuxedo is an exceptional timepiece, festooned with 621 brilliant cut diamonds.

Independent’s day - Grönefeld “One Hertz” Dune

The two Dutch brothers, Tim and Bart Grönefeld fooled me into thinking the “One Hertz” nomen, referred to the frequency of the balance wheel. It actually refers to the dead beat seconds, sometimes referred to as “second morte” or “jumping seconds”.

Harrods exclusive - IWC reveal three limited edition pilot's watches

Everything is in place for these three pilot’s watches to descend on the prestigious department store, Harrods. These brightly coloured models are exclusive to the Knightsbridge-based retailer and will be available to purchase from July.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor in pink gold

Medieval knights and warriors feature in Roger Dubuis's adverts. They have always embraced the world of daring aesthetics whilst paying due reverence to the tradition of haute horology.

IWC Ingenieur Automatic

What is the brand trying to say to the would-be owner? Some will argue this is of little interest to a true watch enthusiast. However, I would argue to the contrary.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

The consummation of my courtship with Lange took place a few years ago, prior to my career in journalism. I purchased an elegant 1815 model, presented in yellow gold with regal blued hands.

Tourneau exclusive - Baume & Mercier Capeland 10088

I have never made any secret of my admiration for Baume & Mercier on ESCAPEMENT. I believe they proffer charming aesthetics, drawing on their extensive back catalogue of models. Moreover, they offer excellent value for money, surpassing the talents of many other, more ambitiously priced, timepieces.

Wempe, Bond Street, London

The whole concept of luxury is that it is special, an occasional treat. If we ate birthday cake everyday, it would no longer feel like an indulgence. Luxury is the occasional purchase where the buying process is part of the joy; a process where the consumer is cosseted in a robe of care and assisted with their purchase.

Calibre de Cartier Chronograph watch

The name “Cartier” conjures many thoughts in my mind. I always think of Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor. I visualise the onyx and diamond panther bracelet she wore and her much admired flamingo diamond clip from the 1940s.

MB&F MOONMACHINE by Stepan Sarpaneva

I have had the privilege of meeting Stepan Sarpaneva and there are two things which strike you about the Finnish watchmaker.

Firstly, he has an immense ability to create watches bestowed with an individual, innovative and highly original design.

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 17

There could be no more fitting tribute to celebrate the 80th birthday of the man whose creativity spawned the Carrera than a limited edition timepiece to commemorate the event. However, is the watch a worthy tribute to the living legend that is, Jack Heuer?

Harry Winston Midnight Big Date

Falling under the spell of love, beneath the midnight sky   I am a dreamer, who gazes at the clear night sky with an optimistic heart. There are few times of the day, more timeless than midnight with its zero value. I look upwards towards the jew...

Zenith Pilot Montre d Aeronef Type 20

In love with a leviathan   It is January and half the population have New Year’s resolutions, many of which undoubtedly relate to body image. It seems vast numbers of people are unhappy with their physique. This is no revelation. There is a huge ...

Piaget Polo Tourbillon Relatif in white gold

A delicacy to savour   It is easy to become nonchalant about watches costing six figure sums when you see them every day in your professional life. Writing about watches can result in you becoming increasingly blasé about incredible timepieces. ...

Roger Dubuis Pulsion Chronograph in pink gold

It’s rude to stare   It is a difficult balance being a parent. On one hand you wish to set boundaries, define acceptable behaviour and encourage seemly etiquette. Conversely, you do not wish to stifle personality, inhibit expression or nuture an ...

The Tourbillon G-Sensor RM 036 Jean Todt Limited Edition

F=ma   The term “g-force” is a misnomer. If you speak to any student of mechanical mathematics, they will inform you that “g” or gravity is a measure of acceleration or deceleration, 9.81 metres per second squared when expressed to two decimal pl...

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication

There is a room... Le Brassus is a quiet village, nestling amidst the verdant beauty of the Vallée de Joux. It is home to one of the oldest watch companies in existence, Audemars Piguet.     Coniferous trees decorate the green hills. Cattle play ...

Harrods exclusive - RM 038 Bubba Watson Victory Watch

“Not he who has much is rich, but he who gives much”.   One of the perils of being a celebrity is becoming remote from society at large, as you are increasingly sheltered by those who seek to protect you. In my career I have met several stars f...

Baume & Mercier Clifton 1830

Family values   The nature of my occupation is that everyday I get to touch and see incredible timepieces and lose my heart to a watch with a stratospheric price. I have sometimes caught myself being blasé about a watch costing six or seven figur...

Chronoswiss Regulateur 30

“Don’t be seduced by a pretty face”. “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder”. The caveats ring out, but seduced I am.     Chronoswiss with its limited output again presents a watch in limited edition, two limited editions in fact, 130 pieces in 1...

A. Lange & Soehne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst

Sitting at the traffic lights   Few things in life can beat the feeling of taking delivery of a brand new car, unsullied by the negligence of former owners. Everything is fresh. There is a smell which confers newly delivered status like the fragr...

Parmigiani Bugatti Atalante fly-back chronograph

Fly-back to an elegant era   Ettore Bugatti was the Italian founder of the brand that bears his name. The company was launched in 1909 and produced its legendary cars in Molsheim, Alsace.   A red oval badge adorned these cars which were made wi...

Chopard Superfast

The swimmer, the gamekeeper, the driver and the watch lover Man has always had an obsessive, predilection for speed.     History is punctuated with numerous records where to be the fastest is the sole raison d'etre for hours of training or engine...

Perrelet Turbine Diver

The symbolism of a name   When I ponder the word, “Turbine”, I think of strength, power, movement and aquatic propulsion. Indeed it is the latter which is particularly relevant for this timepiece. This watch was born to live beneath the waves.   ...

Roger Dubuis Excalibur World Time - piece unique Harrods

Harrods Time   Louis Cottier developed the first world time watch in 1931. The timepiece allowed the wearer to simultaneously see the “home time” and “local time”. This was an ideal complication for the seasoned traveller or the businessman condu...

Arnold & Son TBR

Horological anglophilia I make no excuses I am proud to be English. Our national history is punctuated with innovation and industrial success. This is perfectly exampled by the English prowess for creating timepieces in the 18th century.   Initia...

IWC Portuguese Grande Complication

A brilliant mind   Intelligence is a funny thing, some are blessed with desirable levels, yet others are less fortunate.   Over the years I have met individuals who possess high intelligence in one vector, yet somehow cannot perform the most mund...

Chopard L.U.C 150 all in one

A fleeting moment I confess to standing like a vertical sardine on the London Underground and catching the momentary sight of a beautiful lady. Our eyes meet and there is a brief connection. Vanity makes me think it is my august good looks. Howev...

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve

I admit. I am rather obsessional. I like balance, symmetry. Things have to be even...no odd numbers, centred, but I also like the unpredictable so this watch fulfils my wishes. It has a pleasing form, all conforms to the chosen palette and outline...

Zenith Pilot Big Date Special 2012

A cold morning at Geneva Airport and I joined fellow journalists on the mini-bus, destined for a location in the Jura mountains. A regular occurrence, several of the usual suspects were present. We often visit ateliers en-masse to view the craftsmanship in the land of chocolate, cheese, banking and of course, haute horology.

Baume & Mercier Capeland MOA 10068

Flyback to 1948   Baume & Mercier have looked to it's past and one of it's historic chronographs from 1948, when they conceived the modern-day Capeland range of models.   The year, 1948, seems very distant from life as we know it today. It wa...

Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro

Here is a timepiece at once both familiar and unusual. It’s cylindrical form and sturdiness instil a comfortable feel as of an old acquaintance and yet it is pleasingly different and has a modernity of style.

Panerai Radiomir 8 Days GMT Oro Rosso 45 mm Special Edition (PAM 395)

The name presents all the salient details. The family name “Radiomir” immediately helps the visualisation but this is a watch which is bold, not brash, but quite beautiful, a vision to savour. It is a watch with two exquisitely elegant faces. It ...

Jaeger-Le Coultre AMVOX7 Chronograph

Falling in love again   Jaeger-Le Coultre are an innovative brand. They hold 398 patents at the time of writing. However, their relentless pursuit of solutions to the problems lesser brands have not even identified, means this number may well hav...

Bulgari Bulgari Lady

All that glitters is not gold   The term, “All that glitters is not gold” is an everyday saying. The expression is derived from a line in Shakespeare’s Merchant of Venice, except he wrote, “All that glisters is not gold.” It refers to the p...

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2755

I left my heart in ........Geneva   Tony Bennett sang about losing his heart in the Californian city by the bay. As I listen to the song I am inspired to bellow my affection for San Francisco in my car’s rear view mirror as fellow grid-locked com...

SPEEDMASTER FIRST OMEGA IN SPACE NUMBERED EDITION CHRONOGRAPH

I am of that generation who can recall where they were when Marilyn Monroe died: Sat with my boyfriend overlooking Tarn Hows listening to the car radio. Likewise, where they were when Kennedy was shot: Walking down the corridor in Hall. We were th...

Piaget Altiplano Automatic Skeleton

Do you have a skeleton in the closet? The saying, “To have a skeleton in the closet” originates from the 19th century. In current day parlance we would probably say, “To have a skeleton in the cupboard”. It alludes to a secret source of shame, po...

Concord C2 GraffitiGrey Circuit

The stealth watch   Recently an invitation arrived in my email inbox to attend a watch launch. It provided a welcome change from the numerous offers to share in the proceeds of someone's lottery win for a modest administration charge or to avail ...

Bremont SOLO 37

Diet Solo but with all the flavour It is a sad fact of life that when you remove the carbohydrate and saturated fat from food it seldom tastes as good. This is certainly my perception, speaking as a chap who has an uncanny knack of being first in ...

Breguet Reine de Naples gold thread bracelet 8908

A beauty blessed with a face so pure   The Napoleonic wars spanned a significant period in European history (1803 - 1815). Napoleon Bonaparte's voracious appetite for foreign lands spelled a bloody period in European history.   It was a young Joa...

Graham Chronofighter Prodive Professional

Yellow submarine The Yellow Submarine was the animated musical fantasy film famously conceived by, “The Fab Four” et.al. It was an artistic form of expression which indulged music fans with original lyrics and memorable tunes.     Pepperland was ...

Angus Davies chats to Miguel Angel Jimenez

The Audemars Piguet Ambassador talks about his love of life and watches A warm summer’s day on the outskirts of Geneva provided the perfect setting to interview one of golf’s most charismatic professionals. Golf Club de Bonmont overlooks Lake Lém...

FP Journe Octa Calendrier

Prize winner extraordinaire A recent sojourn to Switzerland led me to the doorstep of a modern atelier situated on Rue de l’Arqubuse in Geneva. A prestigious boutique provides a home for delightful horological treats to titillate any obsessed watc...

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Roue Carree Seconde Pink Gold

Just a second? I am guilty. As the culmination of my wife’s feverish endeavour in the kitchen concludes, I always embark on a minor task. My long suffering spouse will call out my name, as the piping hot meal is duly served. The usual response is,...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night and Day

You are the one Cole Porter crafted the beautiful song, “Night and Day”, however, many will think of Frank Sinatra delivering the tune with impeccable diction, timing and inflexion.   Like many men, I confess to singing Frank’s hits whilst looking...

Salon QP

Britain has an illustrious history in watch making. Now the words “Made in Britain” are proudly displayed on the dials of British made timepieces such as those of Robert Loomes & Co. The skills and innovation is still alive. Names like John...

Chopard L.U.C XPS

Renowned since 1860 for the creation of peerless jewellery Chopard’s foray into the world of watch making is much more recent.  Its watch making manufacture was established in 1996. Recency in terms of haute horology manufacture does not diminish ...

IWC Ingenieur Automatic Limited Edition 2012 Ref IW323311

Horology with a high cocoa content I have reached a stage of my life where my loving wife keeps a watchful eye on my health and in particular my diet. She fears my waistline will never cease expanding, my arteries will harden, diabetes will beckon...

Bulgari Octo

An octagonal masterpiece?   In recent years Bulgari, darling of starlets and the well-healed, have produced some very impressive timepieces.   The acquisition of Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth signaled a serious intent to become a significant othe...

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde SW Steel-Rubber

A full metal jacket Jaquet Droz make elegantly crafted timepieces embracing classical aesthetic lines. Lancine shaped hands, grand feu dials and cases made of noble metals form the graceful design language of which I never tire.     My adoration ...

Richard Mille RM 016 “Black Night” Limited Edition

A name to conjure with Richard Mille have launched a new “Black Night” limited edition timepiece. The name has appeared before on the limited edition RM 010, worn by the Richard Mille Polo Team. However, this model departs from the tonneau shaped ...

Roger Dubuis Velvet diamonds in white gold

Luxurious velvet The woven fabric with a short, dense pile has often been associated with luxury and aristocracy. It, therefore, comes as no surprise that prestigious horologer, Roger Dubuis, selected, “Velvet” as the name for its latest haute joa...

Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate

Nei blu depinto di blu “In the blue, painted blue” are the famous lyrics of the song, “Volare”. The words could equally apply to the latest horological creation by Blancpain.     The dial is the first Blancpain model featuring a flinqué lacquered...

IWC Spitfire Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month

The ultimate pilot’s watch? IWC have crafted fine pilot’s watches since the mid 1930’s. The watches from the Swiss manufacturer have long been renowned for their functionality, with dials that readily aid the interpretation of time.     The Big ...

Harry Winston Midnight Automatic in rose gold

Harry Winston The name has magic. What woman does not love precious jewels? No name has closer ties with exquisite offerings than Harry Winston. Marilyn huskily added his name to Tiffany’s and Cartier and pleaded “Talk to me Harry Winston” as she ...

Roger Smith Series 2

Upholding the legacy of George I had the good fortune to visit the small atelier on the Isle of Man earlier this year belonging to the charismatic Roger Smith. I waxed-lyrical on ESCAPEMENT shortly after returning to the mainland, enthusing about ...

HYT H1 Titanium

Going green As we burn fossil fuels and consume the earth’s natural resources, there is a greater imperative to find new sources of energy.   Solar power has seen many households in the UK retro-fit unsightly panels to the roofs of their dwellings...

Tank Louis Cartier XL slimline watch

In the Edwardian era there was the caveat which became a mantra, never to comment upon a likeness, injudicious, a social faux pas. Parental likenesses could cause embarrassment.   Today we note with joy evidence of lineage in a new baby and so it...

Lange 1 Time Zone

The perfect travel companion Travel is a luxury of which I never tire. It is exciting to visit faraway lands, embrace different cultures and sample unfamiliar gastronomic delights. However, sometimes there is reassurance found in the familiar.   ...

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar

An Overseas investment Unless you have been cast away on a desert island, you almost certainly will have seen the news reports on television or newspapers telling tales of economic woes afflicting western economies.   Some savers have sought solac...

Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX

Automotive inspired horology I remember in 1978 my father owned a Citroën GS Basalt. I was 11 years old at time and thought the limited edition model with black bodywork, featuring bold orange stripes on its flanks was “seriously cool” to use the ...

Bremont Norton

Motorcycling has radically changed in the last 30 years, not just the bikes but the riders as well. A motorcycle was considered an economical mode of transport for all, particularly the working man, cheap to run, easy to maintain. However, today, ...

Perrelet Turbine 1047/2

And now for something completely different When I held the black timepiece from Perrelet in my hands for the first time, I immediately thought of the title of a Monty Python film. Not because there is anything comical about the watch, on the contr...

Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon

“Between us and excellence, the gods have placed sweat on our brows.” The perspiration mentioned by the Greek poet, Hesiod, may not apply to the quiet endeavour of the artisans of Vacheron Constantin, however, their relentless pursuit of excellenc...

Breguet Heritage Phases de Lune Retrograde 8860

The wise moon As I write this article, I am sailing across the Adriatic, admiring the basalt black sky adorned with flawless diamonds which promise fortunes faraway. Amidst the twinkling treasures beyond my grasp, sits the proud and resplendent mo...

Limited Edition Bremont MBII/TWG from The Watch Gallery

No need to eject We are big fans of Bremont here at ESCAPEMENT, as many of you will be able to ascertain from articles previously written.   Bremont, led by Nick and Giles English, produce high quality wristwatches offering robust construction an...

Angus Davies talks watches with Bubba Watson

An interview with Bubba Watson, winner of the US Masters 2012. The background to the interview I was approached by Richard Mille, exemplar of neoteric haute horology and asked if I would like to interview Bubba Watson. I had previously researched ...

Fortis B-47 Mysterious Planets

Is there life on Mars? David Bowie released his famous song, “Life on Mars” in 1971. Space and planets was a theme Mr Bowie would return to for his track, “Space Oddity.” His predilection to stare at the starry skies and dream of life beyond our o...

Glashuette Original Senator Observer

A deck watch for a new generation Germany has a long history of producing deck or observer watches, sometimes referred to as ”Nav B-Uhr” or “Beobachtungsuhr.”     These timepieces proved ideal for navigation, they followed the tradition of marine...

Bremont World Timer ALT1-WT

Great Explorations The English have a long tradition of exploration. If you look back to the sixteenth century, Sir Francis Drake circumnavigated the world, Sir Walter Raleigh was discovering Guyana and Sir John Hawkins voyaged to West Africa and ...

Panerai Radiomir California 3 Days (PAM 424)

The nostalgia quotient is high. It’s the subdued brown of the strap against the gold luminescent numerals and matt black of the face which presents a sober palette. The retro styling and I think back to a time when men habitually wore suits. In t...

The Bulgari Diagono Ceramic

  Bulgari, say the name and the vision is of magnificent gems, fabulous jewellery, with exquisite settings and Italian flair for design and so it was as creators of fine jewellery that Bulgari first gained renown. Now, however, it presents luxu...

IWC Big Pilot's Watch Perpetutal Calendar TOP GUN Ref IW502902

My favourite Big Pilot?   I am sometimes asked, whilst at social gatherings, “What is your favourite watch?”. I find this an impossible question to answer.   It is similar to asking me which is my favourite child. On occasion, after tripping over...

Bulgari il Giocatore Veneziano

Fit for a Doge   There are few cities in the world that can rival the beauty of Venice. A World Heritage Site, the city is located in the northeast of Italy on a marshy lagoon. It comprises of a group of islands, numbering in excess of 100 lin...

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Large Date Moon-Phases

A fine vintage with a delightful finish The word, “vintage”, often accompanies the finer things in life such as wine, cars and in this instance a magnificent timepiece.   Girard-Perregaux have a long history producing some of the finest examples ...

Hublot Oceanographic 4000 Titanium

The art of fusion beneath the waves   Hublot are synonymous with their strap line, “The art of fusion”. The brand with the charismatic figurehead, Jean Claude-Biver, has brought new materials to horology.     Moreover, it is not just the cutting...

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Leo Messi Limited Edition

Leo Messi’s finest hat trick?   I was given my first Audemars Piguet in 2005. A pink gold Edward Piguet Chronograph on a brown leather strap. I smiled when I read that Leo Messi received his first Audemars Piguet in the same year.   Leo Messi f...

De Ville Chronograph OMEGA Co-Axial Calibre 9301

“Handsome is as handsome does” is a popular adage. The caveat has always been not just to judge by appearances, not to be beguiled by a handsome face, that “beauty is only skin deep,” but not in this instance. Here is a handsome exterior and with...

Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Gold

Life in the fast lane I have always been fascinated by motorsport. The shrill of an engine revved to the absolute limit of its performance envelope, the aroma of fuel and rubber wafting through the trackside breeze and the sight of masters of driv...

Hermes Arceau Marqueterie de Paille

Rhapsody in Blue I am always surprised how on hearing a piece of music I can find myself momentarily drifting into another world. Vivid images enter my brain and I sometimes adopt a persona and lifestyle far removed from my everyday existence.   ...

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Lune Retrograde

Blue moon Man has often obsessed with the moon. A sage eye looking down on the earth below, it has led to man perilously voyaging to discover its beguiling charms.     The moon has provided inspiration in music and been featured in literature. It...

Montblanc Star Classique Automatic

When you wish upon a star I have been a longtime admirer of Montblanc’s Villeret collection. They are incredible examples of haute horology. The finissage is exemplary, the aesthetics admirable and the movements meritorious. Sadly, my coveting gaz...

Bulgari Endurer Chronosprint

We have all the time in the world Life in the 21st century is fast paced. Many moan of being, “cash rich and time poor”.   Everything appears to happen in a rush. I walk down the street and our urban landscape appears to be blighted with an ever i...

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969

I usually choose to write about watches which have simplicity and classic form as a preference but I find this watch fascinating.     I tried to rationalise this attraction.   I think it the organisation of the sub dials and the vista through the...

IWC Aquatimer Deep Two

How deep is your love? I am showing my age. I remember the original Bee Gees version before cover versions appeared by Take That et al. Originally released in 1977, it still sounds good to this day.   John Travolta’s flares may look at little pass...

Richard Mille Caliber Extra Flat Automatic RM 033

How to avoid being typecast by Richard Mille The dilemma for many jobbing actors is when do you turn your back on a regular income in the pursuit of new challenging roles. An actor who has made a role their own in a soap opera may view their emplo...

Blancpain L-evolution chronographe flyback a rattrapante

Born to race I have had the good fortune to attend Blancpain Endurance Series at Silverstone on more than one occasion.     GT cars enter Copse corner at incredible speed. Their drivers demonstrate tremendous bravery and skill, judging the fusion...

Chopard L.U.C 8HF

Frequent Flyer Those who often travel by plane will be offered a frequent flyer loyalty bonus in the form of points, miles, stars or some other unit of measure bearing a notional value. The airline wants to encourage repeat business.     There is...

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph ladies model

Falling in love with Aphrodite’s watch Spa-Francorchamps is probably the finest race track in the world.     I first visited the track in 1999 and was aghast at the velocity of Formula One cars driving through Eau Rouge, up the steep gradient of ...

MB&F Legacy Machine No.1

With a little help from my friends  MB&F is a relatively young watch brand, founded in 2005 by Maximilian Büsser. The “F” expressed in the brand’s nomenclature refers to “Friends”, the specialists Büsser calls upon to make his amazing horologi...

Harry Winston Ocean Sport Chronograph Limited Edition

A modern miracle of metallurgy Harry Winston started his jewellery business in 1932 in New York. He soon earned a reputation for his approach to jewellery design. He acquired the jewellery collection of Mrs Arabella Huntington, wife of Henry Hunti...

Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture

The face that launched a thousand ships Ulysse Nardin was founded in 1846 and has a long history making marine chronometers.     Marine Chronometers were originally used to assist mariners to navigate seas. The advent of advanced navigational ins...

Nomos Glashuette Zurich blaugold

Blue is the colour There is a brown version which is quite delightful but if you are a trend follower, then this year it is blue.     Blue was certainly the colour en vogue at SIHH and Baselworld. Many maisons presented offerings in blue.   As a...

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950

Come and See As a small child my father and my uncle took great delight in showing me those things which gladden your heart. I recall being carried carefully, nightdress clad, in strong arms, to the stables where my uncle’s dog had given birth to...

Baume & Mercier Capeland MOA 10063

Parting is such sweet sorrow The offer came out of the blue. Would I like to wear a watch for a month and comment on it for ESCAPEMENT? With a rapier response, I replied in the affirmative and a new timepiece was to be mine, albeit only for a mont...

Jaquet Droz Grand Date Ivory Enamel

A pulchritudinous face, pure and pleasing. Jaquet Droz produce watches with clean, uncluttered lines. This latest model launched at Baselworld 2012 continues their successful mastery of proportion and exquisite taste.   Nothing corrupts this clari...

Graham Chronofighter 1695

The passion of an “Anglophile” I sat opposite Eric Loth, founder of Graham-London, and found myself captivated by the passionate parlance of this charismatic man.     Eric is Swiss by birth, having spent most of his life in Le Locle. However, he ...

Bremont The Victory Watch

Introduction  Bremont’s aviation ties have been well documented on this site and is highlighted by their propeller logo. The naval connection is less well known. However, at Baselworld their new naval connection was made clear at the unveiling of...

Chronoswiss Kairos Chronograph

A time to act Ancient Greeks used two words for the expression of time; chronos and kairos.   Chronos refers to chronological time, a quantitative measure. Kairos on the other hand is a subjective term used to express the opportune moment or pla...

A. Lange & Soehne Grand Lange 1

The best is the enemy of the good I sat in the presentation at Salon International de Haute Horology, SIHH, in January this year. I listened to the representative from A. Lange & Söhne open proceedings with a quote from Voltaire.   Voltaire fa...

F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain

The Sovereign reigned with a regal face François-Paul Journe has an astute ability to design stunningly sublime timepieces which bear his own unique design language. The Chronomètre Souverain is no exception with gorgeous guilloché to beguile pros...

Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar watch calibre 9908 MC

Swiss Horology with Parisian savoir faire Cartier jewellery is synonymous with France. Originating in Paris back in 1847, the Maison famed for it’s red and gold coloured jewellery boxes has epitomised Gaelic elegance.     Despite the changes in c...

Piaget Gouverneur Automatic Calendar

Firmitas, utilitas, venustas Vitruvius is famous for his study of architecture. In his book De architectura, now referrred to as The Ten Books on Architecture, he stated all structures must combine three qualities; “firmitas”, “utilitas” and “venu...

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk

An affectionate embrace De Bethune are a relatively new company in watchmaking compared with some of the brands I have written about.     This year it celebrates its tenth anniversary. However, the company has already proven it has incredible exp...

JeanRichard Highlands Big Life Limited Edition

For the outdoors Presented at the 2012 Salon International de la Haute Horologie (SIHH) in Geneva here is a watch that is rugged, bold, masculine and ready to meet the challenges of the great outdoors. It is for all weathers, all terrains, in app...

Maitres du Temps Chapter Three Reveal

A kindred spirit I met Steven Holtzman on a rainy day in Basel during the annual fair when retailers, journalists and watch enthusiasts from around the globe descend on this Swiss city close to the borders of Germany and France.     Steven, an Am...

Bremont Solo

Going Solo If you have ever trodden the path to becoming a pilot you will know that it can be a long, demanding and tortuous one. Whether it is becoming a military fast jet pilot or achieving your private pilot's licence they all have memorable mi...

IWC Pilot's Watch Worldtimer

“I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery As I sat in a London office it seemed surreal that what lay in front of me in a neat little presentation box, from a quiet little village in Northern ...

Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Titanium

The Big Bang Theory fuses with il Cavallino Rampante  The “art of fusion” is the strap line adopted by Hublot. They have established themselves as pioneers of combining different materials in the pursuit of avant-garde horology.     When the Big ...

Bulgari Octo Maserati

O paese d’o sole When D’Annibale Vincenzo composed his famous neapolitan song, his lyrics conveyed the love for a place, in this case Naples. Naples is the third largest city in Italy, resting towards the ankle of this captivating country.     Vi...

Carl F Bucherer Manero AutoDate

I’m in my comfort zone. I admire watches with remarkable complications, exciting, innovative functions but this is the style of watch which comes to my mind when I envisage what I like in watch design and moreover what I require in a watch. It pre...

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding

"A thing of beauty is a joy for ever" I visited the Salon de la Haute Horology in January 2012 (SIHH) and joined fellow journalists at the presentation by Audemars Piguet. I listened with incredulity at the amazing history of the Royal Oak and lit...

Fortis Limited Edition Marinemaster Vintage

This is made in Grenchen in Switzerland but pleasingly, for my family, there is a Lancashire connection since it was John Harwood, a watch repairer from Bolton who came up with the idea of an automatic self-winding movement and registered the pate...

Richard Mille RM038

Taking a unique course to success In recent days Bubba Watson has secured victory at the Masters in Augusta.   A physical giant, standing at 6 foot 3 inches tall, he strikes the ball with incredible force resulting in him leading the US PGA tour i...

Breguet Marine ref 5827BR/Z2/5ZU

Navigating the seas John Harrison (1693 - 1767) In the early 18th century, ships would sometimes prematurely curtail their journeys on rocks or other maritime obstacles. The absence of a suitable means of assessing longitudinal position presented ...

Roger Dubuis La Monegasque Automatic

Red or Black Once a year the great and the good descend on the principality of Monaco. Large luxury yachts nestle in the harbours as the beautiful people contemplate a weekend of excitement, the “Grand Prix de Monaco”. It is the ultimate motorspor...

Nomos Glashuette Tangomat GMT

Memory and Memories This watch had an instant pull on my emotions.   In 1996 I visited the Bauhaus-Museum in Wiemar which is housed in a former coach house in Theaterplatz. There I was able to admire works by Walter Gropius who launched the schoo...

Bremont - A meeting with Giles English, a bittersweet moment.

About Bremont Bremont is the “quintessential British brand” that has enjoyed a warm reception from critics and watch collectors alike.     The brand which continues its ascendancy in terms of popularity was borne out of tragedy. Nick English and ...

Chopard Classic Manufactum, Automatic

Do not ignore… Lovers of haute horology who visit this site may eschew automatics but this is not a watch to ignore bearing many features associated with haute horology and watches which have a much higher price point. This Chopard offering is no...

Baume & Mercier Hampton MOA 10032

Follow Route 27  Take the New York State Route 27 and head out of Brooklyn and continue east towards the Hamptons.     If you visit the town of East Hampton you will be greeted with designer boutiques, Peconic farmland, Polo horses galloping in s...

The Eclipse Onyx by Jaquet Droz

“In even monochrome and curving line” Jaquet Droz are masterful in creating delightful dials. The latest offering is no exception.   Black Onyx A dial hewn from one piece of black onyx, it has a unique appearance. Jaquet Droz are experts in ename...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Vintage Chronograph

No need for alarm, its totally disarming In the 1950’s diver’s watches were in their infancy. Cousteau was delighting audiences with his films such as Le Monde du Silence only a few years after he jointly invented the Aqua-Lung with Emile Gagnan ....

Glashütte Original Panoinverse XL

As I admire the beautiful dial of the Glashütte Original Panoinverse XL, it is the rubies which are an immediate hit with me.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph

The genuine article In recent months I have received press releases about several so-called pilot's watches. They are often pleasing to the eye and have mechanical merit. However, IWC is the genuine article.   IWC has a long history of manufactur...

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Small Second

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Small Second Lineage is important If there was an Alamanac de Gotha for watch houses then Girard-Perregaux would be in the first rank of Maison Seigneurales. Its lineage is impeccable and its name recalls a marriage. Ancest...

Jean Richard Diverscope LPR

The Diverscope was introduced in 2011 and this is the new version launched at SIHH in 2012. It is a watch suited to its purpose.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 38mm

Brief Encounter I have collected wristwatches all my adult life. A trait I have developed is to surreptitiously glance at the watch of the person with whom I am in conversation.     Much can be ascertained about a person’s persona merely by looki...

Roger W Smith Limited

When I formed ESCAPEMENT, I remarked to my wife that I dreamt of visiting a watchmaker called Roger Smith. I enthused about watching him on You Tube making blued watch hands for example.

Omega De Ville Annual Calendar – Platinum on leather strap

There are a number of versions in the De Ville collection in red gold and steel, with black or white faces, metal or leather straps to match but it is the white–faced platinum version with the startling blue features which I find the most striking, understated, so simple and yet so engaging.

Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa XL Hebdomadaire Steel, PF 003518.01

Here is a watch which is testament to the dedication of the brand to achieving the highest standards, an exemplar of superb craftsmanship and design.

Jaquet Droz : The Grande Seconde SW Steel – Ceramic

Avant-garde, striking in its uncluttered round form, modern in appearance this watch draws upon the past for its creation. It is inspired by an eighteenth century timepiece.

Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 - Vintage Tachydate

Montblanc clearly has a strong team of watchmakers, and this is perfectly exemplified by the beautiful Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 - Vintage Tachydate timepiece

Patek Philippe Men’s Gondolo Ref. 5124G

Admire the dial of this Patek Philippe watch and you do not see lots of sub-dials and hands but a beautiful rose coloured dial staring back at you.

Baume and Mercier Linea MOA 10073

I am more frugal I am more frugal than my son who will happily pay the premium price for haute horology, with always another model becoming the object of his desire. I do love the craftsmanship, the tradition, the beautiful finish, the detailing, ...

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine

The grand complications in the range include amazing tourbillons and minute repeaters. However, one of my favourites is the Patrimony Contemporaine. This stunning svelte sensation lacks complications but affords its owner simplicity of line.

Breitling for Bentley Barnato Racing

This 49mm diameter watch successfully traverses the sports/dress watch divide, in my opinion. Yes it is extremely large, too large for me sadly, but it is so beautifully realised with such exquisitely detailed design elements that it looks perfect in all situations.

Richard Mille RM 037

Richard Mille is a relative “new kid on the block” and has won many admiring fans from around the globe. The company has eschewed many historical norms associated with haute horology adopting cutting-edge technology and a fresh perspective on watch design.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up / Down

The former Datograph was much loved for its considered design and held in high regard by serious watch collectors from around the globe. A. Lange & Söhne have revisited the Datograph and launched a new version, the Datograph Up / Down featuring a new movement.

Millenary 4101 - more rule breaking

The Millenary was not an immediate favourite of mine on first acquaintance. The oval shape looked a little too unconventional for my taste. However, the Millenary 4101 somehow caught me in its headlights and a coming together was imminent.

Ebel Classic Hexagon

Ebel has caught my attention with the Ebel Classic Hexagon. It has a hexagonal case made of brushed stainless steel with a complementary stainless steel bezel in a highly polished finish. The design is fresh, and despite its similarity in shape to Ebel’s of the 1980’s, it has modernity and a contemporary look.

Cartier Tank Anglaise

Tank is a name synonymous with Cartier, the house which always exemplify perfect timeless style. Fashions may change, but Cartier is like a fine couture dress. Its manufacture is beautifully executed and it transcends changes in taste, always retaining relevance and befitting the current age.

The Excalibur Automatic from ROGER DUBUIS

This addition to the Excalibur range is bold in its design. Bearing the Excalibur name it has to be. It has to hold fast tradition. It has to accord with the rules of engagement for haute horology but it must also dazzle. In rose gold it is quite stunning.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Chronographe Flyback Quantième Complet

The very nature of divers' watches is that they are over-engineered for use on terra firma. They are designed to withstand incredible pressures for use in deep waters. It is the tolerances these pieces can endure which makes them appealing to me.

BREMONT - A pilot's perspective.

A love of all things mechanical and a desire to produce excellently crafted pilot's watches led to the creation of Bremont by two brothers, Nick and Giles English. The brothers have had a passion for flying historic aircraft from a very early age.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon

The anatomy of a masterpiece Often my exuberance for watches leads to the personification of a timepiece. I tend to wax-lyrical about the marvellous nuances of a horological hedonism which has become the cornerstone of my life.   If there was ever...

F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu

Journe is a Master Watchmaker of world renown. At the tender age of 20 he embarked on the ambitious project of making his first tourbillon pocket watch. A project incorporating one of the most complex complications, it was not for the faint-hearted. It took five years to complete the pieces, testament to his determination and patience.

Baume and Mercier, Hampton for Men, MOA 10033

“Accept only perfection, only manufacture watches of the highest quality.”

Baume and Mercier declare their intent in their motto. They adhere to it. For me this watch is perfection. There is not a discordant note, no blemish, no fault. The lines flow. The styling is beautiful.

Hublot F1™ King Power Suzuka

The design of Suzuka is unique, unlike any other race track. Unique design is a key attribute of the Hublot F1™ King Power Suzuka.

The British School of Watchmaking

An interview with Mark Hearn, Marketing Director of the British School of Watchmaking

Greubel Forsey - Guardians of Haute Horology

Traditional craftsmanship is something close to my heart. Whether that craftsmanship takes the form of stone masonry, painting of a ceiling within a cathedral or the crafting of a fine timepiece, one thing is a prequisite; skills.

Postcard from SIHH: Audemars Piguet

"To break the rules you must first master them"

The new strap line for Audemars Piguet perfectly sums up a company who has always sought its own path both in terms of the models it creates and indeed the way the company operates.

Breitling SuperOceans

For a watch brand that has a long and illustrious history, based on their ability to create timepieces that are perfectly suited and useful for pilots, and aviation enthusiasts, Breitling do have an unerring knack of creating fantastic Diver’s watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Blue Enamel

Only 50 of these special timepieces will ever be produced and it is hardly surprising as their manufacture involves all the skills we associate with the haven of horology in the Vallée de Joux, Jaeger-LeCoultre.

IWC Chronograph Top Gun Miramar - took my breath away

I am immediately drawn to this watch in ceramic with a green textile strap. It is refreshingly different and unlike any watch in my own personal collection of cherished timepieces.

Nomos-Glashütte Zürich Weltzeit

Louis Cottier developed the first World Time watch in 1931, showing the time simultaneously in 31 different cities.

Bulgari Daniel Roth Tourbillon 8 Jours - Two faced

Constructed in 18-carat white gold it contrasts with the silver coloured guilloché work on the dial and the blued hands. Yellow gold or rose gold would appear sickly. White gold is perfect.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Ivory Enamel

The Grande Seconde is a design that harks back to the 18th century, yet still feels relevant in the 21st century.

The simplicity of the dial, is aesthetically appealing, with two dials entwined to form a figure of eight, a number with much significance in several cultures and a cornerstone of the brand’s DNA.

Postcard from SIHH - Jaeger-LeCoultre

My own personal affection for this Manufacture from Vallée de Joux is validated by the two models I have in my own personal collection. I would gladly own more of these wonderful watches if funds allowed.

A. Lange & Söhne: The Saxonia Thin in White Gold

The Saxonia family of watches within its portfolio were restyled by A. Lange & Söhne and this new offering enhances the collection. It is the slimmest watch they have made.

ZENITH Christophe Colomb Equation du Temps

Its groundbreaking achievement of liberation from gravity, its risk taking in creating such a high frequency has brought its reward in this honour resulting in the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, 1st prize in "Complicated Watch Category".

Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days - 47mm (PAM 422)

The design of the Luminor Marina 3 Days - 47mm (PAM 422) is a modern interpretation of the diving watches worn by the Royal Italian Navy back in the 1950’s.

Vacheron Constantin Malte small seconds

Over-embellishment is transient. Ostentation a distraction. With haute couture it is the cut, the line, the drape, that sets a standard that is timeless, epitomised in the little black dress. The well cut suit does not need embellishment or decoration.

Breguet La Tradition Ref 7057BB/11/9W6

“Traditionally innovative” may sound like a paradox, however, in terms of Breguet it is true. Abraham Louis Breguet established his business in Paris in 1775 and to this day must be regarded as the most innovative horologer of all time.

Breitling Montbrillant Olympus – My Review – A1935012

As an engineer who helps put together high volume assembly and test installations I am all too familiar with the phrase Average Time To Intervention (ATTI). Simply put, this is how long a piece of equipment can run until operator intervention is required and is a great way of cutting costs if this can be made as long as possible.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

In 2012 we enter the 40th year since the Royal Oak was launched to unanimous acclaim.

Gérald Genta penned this design icon in 1972.

Glashütte Original Senator Navigator Pilot watches

I have always had a love of the classic Pilot’s watch, an instrument born out of absolute necessity, to aid the navigation of a plane.

Bell and Ross BR02 – A review

I can only imagine the expressions on the faces of the Bell and Ross design team as they were given the multiple criteria for the BR02.

Blancpain Villeret Ultra-Slim (Reference 6651-3642- 55B)

Blancpain has never produced a quartz watch and probably never will. When I formed ESCAPEMENT I vowed I would never feature a quartz watch and with such a wonderful array of mechanical watches in the marketplace, there should never be a need for me to reverse this decision.

 

Vacheron Constantin Historique American 1921

Vacheron Constantin have created a modern interpretation of the 1921 original with many faithful details. The American 1921 forms part of the Historique collection which allows the wearer to reminisce of another period, when wearing their delightful dainty.

Portofino - where Dolce Vita met Haute Horology

It is no surprise that IWC chose to use the “Portofino” name to describe some of its pulchritudinous horological delights. The soporific village awakens from hibernation for the summer season, and is the perfect personification of beauty and sophistication.

Bell and Ross WW1 – A Review

Most watch brands that have aspirations of indulging a male demographic have at least one pilot’s watch in their catalogue. These are often contemporary replicas of the first ever timepieces worn by pilots in the 1920s, which were basically pocket watches with lugs attached or the pilot’s timepieces of WW2, which were designed specifically for the job.

Piaget Altiplano watch

A recent visit to Salon QP and a brief encounter with the Piaget Altiplano watch stole my heart.

Baume & Mercier Capeland ref 10007

“Capeland” is a watch range from Baume & Mercier bearing a name which conjures thoughts of the North Eastern coastal area of the United States of America.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Big Size

With words like “planet” and “Liquidmetal® technology”, this watch sounds like it may be space age. Indeed, this timepiece is packed with cutting-edge technology and originates from the Manufacture who has Space exploration in its genes.

Nomos Glashütte Ludwig Automatic Datum

Many of the watches featured on ESCAPEMENT are chosen because they represent the pinnacle of haute horology irrespective of retail price. However, a brand which has recently come to my attention on several occasions of late is Nomos.

Jaeger-Le Coultre Reverso Grand Date - the sequel!

I sat at the wooden bench within the exhibition area allocated to Jaeger-LeCoultre and admired the spectacle that lay ahead of me. Twelve benches, with perfect illumination and a loupe attached to a wire headband at each bench.

Patek Philippe 10 Day Tourbillon Ref. 5101G

All the watches written about on this site are ones either owned by my son or loved by my son and desired by my son. All are given devoted attention, equally, but for my part I have favourites. This watch is definitely more equal than others.

Bell and Ross BR01 Ceramic

Bell and Ross created the perfect aesthetic and utilitarian horological dish in 2005 when they took the watch world by surprise with the BR01.

A history of Panerai, what next?

Panerai is a wonderful Swiss-Italian manufacturer of premium timepieces. It has historical links to the Royal Italian Navy and produces watches which are overtly masculine and proudly worn by serious watch enthusiasts around the globe.

Cartier: Calibre de Cartier Watch

Think Cartier and you visualise that red leather box, embossed in gold and within an exquisite piece of jewellery or in my case a small perfect lady’s wrist watch.  The name of Cartier brings to mind diadems for royalty, extraordinary jewels and panthers!  After all as Marilyn sang, “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend”.

Tag Heuer 1887 – My review

The Heuer Carrera, named after the gruelling Carrera Panamericana race in Mexico City, was first introduced in 1964 and soon became a very popular model within the Heuer line up. There are now over 40 models available in this range.

Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph - ink no longer required

On March 9th, 1822 Nicolas Rieussec registered the patent for the first chronograph. It allowed for time to be measured at an accuracy of 1/5 of a second.  Montblanc have honoured him.

Graham Chronofighter Oversize GMT

Out of all the watches I own, and have owned, my Graham Chronofighter Oversize GMT is the one that gets the most attention and the most comments. Why? Well, just look at it:

Tag Heuer Grand Carrera with Innovative RS System

The Grand Carrera models were first introduced by Tag Heuer in 2007.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange Zeitwerk

What’s in a name?

A great deal if that name is A. Lange & Söhne. It became etched on my heart when I visited Dresden. It means tradition, craftsmanship, innovation and beauty.

Tag Heuer Monaco – Limited Edition Vintage

The Monaco is the most significant model in Tag Heuer’s history, and not because the coolest actor ever, Steve McQueen, wore one in a movie.

Breitling event at Harrington & Hallworth

The ambient temperature may have been cold outside the Harrington & Hallworth Boutique in Ashton Under Lyne, but a warm welcome awaited guests as they entered this home to the “finer things in life”.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Chronographe

This watch has no need to present or seek acceptance of its credentials.  They are recognised. This watch has prestige. The Jaeger-LeCoultre name has earned its place in the upper echelons of watch making and has a long and successful history in haute horology. It is a lineage of which to be proud.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra XXL Small Seconds

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra XXL Small Seconds is unusual in that it is rather 1930s in style, vintage, but it is a watch of contrasts and almost contradictions.

Breitling Super Avenger - The Beautiful Behemoth - A1337011

The Navitimer can be considered Breitling’s iconic timepiece. In Breitling’s own words the Chronomat Evo (now the superb in-house B01 range) is their flagship model. However, the Super Avenger has consistently been their best selling timepiece.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Chronograph

It was in 1755 that Jean-Marc Vacheron opened his watch making factory in Geneva and  holding fast traditional standards and craftsmanship, watches are still produced which are exemplars of haute horology and which require superlatives to adequately describe them.

What no Trigger? The Ordinary Graham Watches!

It is often a misconception that all Graham watches have the unique trigger mechanism for starting and stopping the chronograph. This design feature isn’t something that is easy to miss.

IWC : The Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph

Identifiable as a member of the family by the characteristic round face and case, it is the first model to bring a sporting note to the family.

Vacheron Constantin in the Middle East

A brand that was formed in 1755 and is able to look back over more than 255 years of uninterrupted activity, could never be accused of being a passing phase or fad. This is a brand which oozes provenance from every pore.

World Premiere Launch of Blancpain X Fathoms - superlatives abound

Blancpain launched their most extreme watch in the largest aquarium in the world, the Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo in the Dubai Mall, Dubai.

Breitling Transocean Chronograph

The Breitling TransOcean is the third watch to incorporate the brilliant in-house Calibre 01 movement.

Rolex Vintage 5513 Submariner

Little did the visitors to the 1954 Basel Fair Rolex stand realise that what they were seeing was to become the most revered, copied, admired, long-lived, desirable and sought after Divers watch design of all time.

Breitling For Bentley Overview

It seems that every watch brand that manufactures tool watches these days has a connection to a car manufacturer. It is a fairly obvious connection in that collectors and admirers of each have the same love for mechanical “engines” and the inter-activity of the components that allows them to function. 

OMEGA Seamaster 1948 Co Axial London 2012 Limited Edition.

In 2012 the Olympic Games again come to London and so will OMEGA.

To honour the return Omega are introducing the OMEGA Seamaster 1948 Co Axial “London 2012” Limited Edition.

Breguet, the innovator, Type XXII 10Hz, high frequency chronograph.

There it was on the back cover of American Express “Departure” magazine, “Breguet, the innovator”.  I read the details given but this watch merited much closer perusal.  It is stunning! I’m hooked!

Patek Philippe 5033 and other wonderful tonneau-shaped delights from the finest watch manufacture

Patek Philippe has to feature on any collector's list as it is the premier exemplar of haute horology.

Chopard Mille Miglia Chronograph – The Perfect Homage

Many high end watch brands have jumped on the Automotive Association bandwagon on recent years. The link is understandable as both high end wrist watches and automobiles carry the same prestige and have mechanical engines.

Glashütte Original Senator Meissen Tourbillon

It is a classic, timeless in its appearance and will still shine in years to come as an exemplar of haute horologie and as an aesthetic masterpiece.

Chopard LUC Classic

As a self confessed watch nut I am very fortunate to be able to indulge in this fairly expensive hobby through reasonable financial means and an understanding wife.

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Carbon

As a youngster I was captured by the dream of space travel.  My career path led to more conventional flying and I became a pilot. 

My choice of watch is, therefore, predictable, a Bell & Ross because of their ties to aviation and space travel.  From the range I chose a BR 03-92 Carbon.  The BR 03 echoes the BR01 which is a larger cased watch, but mine is ample in its proportions.

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200 M

“Swimming with the fishes” is a phrase with sinister overtones synonymous with fictional gangsters portrayed on the silver screen. However, there is nothing sinister about the Omega Seamaster Ploprof which safely operates at great depths underwater.

Hermes Arceau Le Temps suspendu

The Paris based Hermes company has since 1837 been synonymous with styliish leather goods, initially designed for the well heeled male traveller. Hermes luggage is still a desirable companion for any tour or cruise but their product range now also appeals to a wide female audience who are prepared to wait months for the joy of owning a Hermes Birkin handbag.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor World Extreme Alarm (reference 1778470)

Jules Verne’s fictional character Phileas Fogg strived to circumnavigate the world in 80 days, but my Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor World Extreme Alarm can negotiate the world’s greatest cities with a simple twist of the almandine red crown on the left hand side of the dial.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grand Date (reference 3008420)

Margaret Thatcher proclaimed “The lady is not for turning” intimating that turning was an undesirable action. However, the Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre has delighted owners for generations because of the facility to turn over the dial and protect it from any stray objects.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea (reference 116660)

In 1998 I purchased my first quality wristwatch, a Rolex Submariner Date (reference 116610) in stainless steel with a black dial and corresponding black bezel.

Panerai HISTORIC Radiomir Black Seal. PAM 183.

PAM 183 is the soubriquet assigned to the Panerai HISTORIC Radiomir Black Seal. Panerai enthusiasts often refer to models by the serial numbers assigned by Officine Panerai, a practice shared with collectors of Patek Philippe.

Audemars Piguet Edward Piguet Chronograph

In 1972 Gerald Genta designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, a sports watch with a unique octagonal bezel.

Breitling Navitimer World (reference 24322)

Breitling was founded in 1884 and launched the Navitimer in 1952.

IWC Big Pilot Watch (reference IW500401)

The Groβe Fliegeruhr was a military issue watch for use by Aviators. The large cased watches were referred to as “Nav B-Uhr” or “Beobachtungsuhr” (Navigation Watch).

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 (reference 233.021)

In 1880, Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky wrote his famous 1812 Overture to commemorate the Russian defence of Moscow from Napoleon’s Grande Armée and the Battle of Borodino.

A watch is for life, not just for Christmas, a lay-person’s perspective

You’ve followed cars clarioning, “A dog is for life not just for Christmas”.  So too is that special watch.

Watch Reviews

Parmigiani Fleurier Ovale Pantographe

Once again, Parmigiani have shown a unique mien which differentiates them from other brands. There are several models within their new Ovale range, but it is the Pantographe with its telecopic hands, which is the focus of this review.

Montblanc Star Quantième Complet

Audrey Hepburn once remarked, “elegance is the only beauty that never fades”. This quotation immediately came to mind when I saw the handsome timepiece, Star Quantième Complet, from Montblanc.

Baume & Mercier Clifton GMT

Recently, I visited the Baume & Mercier HQ outside Geneve. Here, I had the pleasure of meeting Alexandre Peraldi, Design Director of the brand and surveyed several models laid out in front of me including this GMT from the new Clifton collection.

Eberhard Chrono 4 Géant - hands on

I placed the Eberhard Chrono 4 Géant and knew immediately that hours of key tapping would subsequently ensue in order to convey its many charms.

U-Boat U-51 Chimera (6495) - hands on

It was whilst holding the U-Boat U-51 Chimera (6495) that I was reminded of an episode in my youth. This handsome watch, which I have been lucky enough to wear of late, is a model of clarity and has the most profoundly clean appearance.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227

At Baselworld 2013, Patek Philippe released several gorgeous new models. A particular model which elicited a gasp of delight and a nod of appreciation from this self-confessed watch fanatic was the Calatrava Ref. 5227.

TAG Heuer CARRERA Calibre 36 Chronograph Flyback “Racing” (43mm)

This is a special year for Tag Heuer, maker of timepieces for the intrepid racing professional. It is 50 years since Jack Heuer created his first Carrera timepiece and the brand is currently celebrating the golden anniversary of this iconic watch.

IWC Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon

The IWC Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon is a timepiece which took 10 years to bring to fruition which includes a constant force-escapement. However, is it a podium winner?

Grand Seiko 44GS Limited Edition

This limited edition timepiece is a faithful representation of the original 44GS launched in the year of my birth, 1967. Close examination reveals much merit, justifying my fervent editorial efforts.

Tudor Fastrider Black Shield

I have just returned from Baselworld 2013 and can report that it did not disappoint. There were many novelties which engendered unbridled avarice in this die-hard fan of horology. One brand that was firmly on the agenda was Tudor.