Glossary
A barrier to the enjoyment of some luxury goods and services is a lack of familiarity with the terminology used by industry experts, manufacturers and journalists alike.
Sometimes we feel embarrassed to ask what is meant by a technical term, often French in origin, without fear of looking foolish or ignorant.
Our desire with this website is to improve the awareness of watch making at its best.
We wish to describe some of the considered details which make haute horology something to be admired and encouraged.
Artisans who work on the finest wristwatches use tools at a bench for extended periods, endeavouring to deliver masterpieces made in precious metals which will provide their owner with faithful service and visual delight.
Watch Glossary Terms
Annual Calendar
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
A complicated watch which automatically makes allowance for the length of the month i.e. 30 or 31 days.
Bevel
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
To bevel or “chamfer” involves removing sharp edges carefully using a lathe or file.
Bluing
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
To ensure improved corrosion resistance, hands are heated to a high temperature (approximately 300° C) to make them turn blue.
Bracelet
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Bridge
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
A metal plate fastened to the base plate of the movement at two or more points to allow moving components to move beneath.
Calibre
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Chronograph
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
A Chronograph not only shows the time of day but also includes a stop-watch facility for measuring a time interval and displaying it with a dedicated seconds hand, together with elapsed minutes and hours often shown on sub dials.
Chronometer
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Cock
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
The cock (or bar) is a metal plate which is attached to the base plate at one point, allowing room for a balance wheel to be located underneath.
Crown
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Deployant
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
This is a term given to a clasp on a watch strap which provides a more complex and expensive alternative to the pin-buckle.
Enamelling
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
A glass-like substance that is used in the form of coloured enamel powders which are mixed with special oils and applied like paint.
Engraving
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
The art of engraving is employed in haute horology to adorn the case and the movement using burins (a special chisel type tool).
Escapement
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
The Escape Wheel, Pallet Fork, Balance Spring and Balance wheel form the Escapement which controls the energy from the Spring Barrel and converts it into accurate, portions of energy to ensure that the gear train runs smoothly and accurately.
Finissage
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Finissage or “Finishing” is the term given to time-consuming bevelling, guilloché, engraving, anglage, perlage, and polishing associated with fine watchmaking.
Gear Train
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Geneva Stripes
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Glashütte Ribbing
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
GMT
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
GMT is a term used to describe a watch which carries an additional hour hand that can be adjusted by the wearer to indicate the hours in another time zone.
Gold Chatons
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Originally a plate would have been drilled to accommodate rubies to reduce friction.
Pushing a ruby into the drilled hole would be simple but may have resulted in the jewel becoming damaged.
Guilloché
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Guilloché is a traditional surface decoration applied to the dial or rotor (on automatic movements), created using a grooving tool with a sharp tip to create an even pattern on the surface.
Helium Valve
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
When diving at great depths, divers will acclimatise within a diving bell to increase their tolerance to the pressures at the working depth.
Index Adjuster
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
The steel spring on the movement shown is pressed against the tip of a small screw. By turning this screw in or out, the rate of the movement can be adjusted.
Jewel
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
The friction of the rotating gear wheels within a traditional pocket watch movement was often reduced by using rubies lubricated with a very thin layer of special oil.
Minute Repeater
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
A complication using hammers and gongs to deliver chimes to signify hours, quarter hours and minutes.
Perlage
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Perpetual Calendar
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Pin Buckle
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
The pin buckle sometimes called a tang buckle is fitted to a strap and provides a cheaper alternative to a deployant.
Power Reserve Indicator
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Rattrapante
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
A French word used to describe a split seconds chronograph.
Unlike a standard chronograph, the split seconds chronograph has two hands that start simultaneously.
Rotor
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
The rotor is an eccentric weight found in automatic watches, often semi-circular in appearance which turns on a pivot and winds the mainspring when the wearer’s wrist moves.
Sandwich Dial
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Panerai offer some models featuring a sandwich dial which involves a dial consisting of numbers and indices cut out to reveal a second luminous dial beneath.
Sapphire Crystal
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Synthetic sapphire crystal is made from Aluminium Oxide into a clear colourless, fully transparent material.
Screw Balance
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
A screwed balance contains small weighted screws which can be adjusted to achieve the desired inertia.
Spring barrel
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Three-quarter plate
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Typical of A. Lange & Söhne, an untreated silver plate is drilled and simultaneously positioned onto several arbors.
Tourbillon
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
Vibrations per hour (vph)
- Glossary
- 31st August, 2011
The balance wheel oscillates anti-clock wise and clock-wise through a range of two extreme positions (typically about 300 degrees apart).






































